Cowboys, Clean Cities, and Commutes

Flatonia, in southwestern Fayette County, is where my session on the road begins today. The town is on I-10/US 90 and the Southern Pacific Railroad about 12 miles west of Schulenburg. Founded April 8, 1874, on land acquired by the Galveston Harrisburg and San Antonio Railway, it was named after pioneer merch F.W. Flato.  

Flatonia is 108 miles from Houston. It is even closer to Austin (only 69 miles), 87 miles from San Antonio, and only 39 miles from Victoria. According to the U.S. Census American Community Survey, average commute time is 17.2 minutes, making it unlikely that even the most venerable road warriors in town are commuting to Houston or San Antonio, although a few might be making the trek to Victoria or Austin. Texas is home to a surprisingly large number of hardy souls who commute an hour and half or more, one-way, to work. A survey I did of small-town movers back in 1994 revealed that up to 22 percent commuted 90 miles or more, although a majority preferred to live 30 to 60 miles from their workplace. There is anecdotal evidence of similar preferences and behaviors today. 

Incorporated in 1875, Flatonia became a trade center for cattle and agricultural products. One local attraction, the E.A. Arnim Museum, records the pioneer town as having a 4 to 1 ratio of saloons to churches. That led to a reputation as a not-so-peaceful place as rough and rowdy drunk cowboys occasionally shot up the town. That was long ago. Today, Flatonia is known for its weeklong festival, Czhilispiel, named by Czechs and Germans who are fond of chili. 

I talked to a local retailer who reports that the main economic driver of the area is the preponderance of Houstonians who have bought weekend homes in town and on rural land outside the town. Many of the town’s commercial buildings are in good condition, and a fair number of businesses are tenants. The historic Olle Hotel is still open, and an upscale grocery/general store offers an impressive and eclectic inventory of fine foods, cosmetics, wines, and other products you would expect to find in a Whole Foods market. I talked to the owner, who is savvy and clearly understands the customers she serves in the community and surrounding trade area. There are also some attractive, well-maintained older homes in the town. Population plummeted from Flatonia’s heyday, but it has steadily grown since 2020 to 1,377. 

Heading south of Flatonia on SH 95, Moulton is next on my trek. Moulton’s population is static at about 859. It could use a benefactor or economic change of fortune to spark a revival. It is a picturesque township with an impressive line of historic commercial buildings sited back in the 1850s atop a hill overlooking the railroad that helped create the town.  

From commuting data, it appears residents have found work in and around the community or surrounding towns like Hallettsville, 16 miles northeast, or Shiner, a few miles south. Victoria is about 60 miles away. The town is clean and has some attractive historic homes including the Boehm house. Kloesel’s Steakhouse is the first and most visible business you see on arriving in Moulton. It reportedly takes its place alongside other remote but popular dining and watering holes that I have profiled in other drives across Texas. I was there a week before Thanksgiving, and the people expressed their continuing pride in and zeal for their town with patriotic banners and holiday decorations. 

Shiner is next on my journey.  

Of the towns on this trek, Shiner made the most indelible impression on me. It touts itself as “the cleanest little city in Texas.” Driving and walking around town gives credence to their claim. Kaspar Wireworks, followed by the historic Spoetzl Brewery, are the first hints that something special and significant might be going on here.  

The brewery is highly attractive from an industrial architecture perspective. The stark white buildings and gleaming metal components of the brewery and new craft distillery are impressive. German and Czech immigrants, who populated the region, established the Shiner Brewing Association in 1909 after being unable to find beer of the quality they enjoyed in their home countries. In 1915, German Brewmaster Kosmos Spoetzl purchased the brewery and increased both the quality and capacity of the facility. At Kosmos’ death, his daughter took the reins and, over time, Shiner Beer was marketed and became popular in Austin and beyond. It began selling beer for the first time outside of Texas in 1993. Today, it is one of Texas’ oldest breweries, and is widely known for its flagship brew, Shiner Bock. It’s a popular destination for beer lovers from around the world. The visitors’ parking lot was jam-packed with 50+ cars, when I was there, mid- week, attesting to that popularity! 

The town can trace its roots to the opening of a post office called Half Moon in1885. In 1887, the San Antonio and Aransas Pass Railway bypassed Half Moon, routing through land owned by Henry B. Shiner. He donated 250 acres for the right of way and depot, and the town soon grew around this new infrastructure. In 1888, the town’s name was changed from Half Moon to Shiner.  

In addition to Kaspar and Spoetzl, Shiner is home to other solid businesses, including Texas Precious Metals (Gold and Silver Coinage), Boedeker Plastics and Ranch Hand Manufacturing—makers of bumpers, grill guards, and work utility trailers. The U.S. Census Bureau reported the population as 2,070 in 2000, 2,126 in 2020, and 2,163 in 2023. 

The town is filled with delightfully restored historic homes, sending a strong signal as to the overall health of the community. 

Next on the road south is Yoakum. We will pick up there next time. 

All notations on the history of towns in this blog were sourced from the Texas State Historical Association.